Allure’s Clean Beauty Standard: The 7 Ingredients Under Scrutiny

In 2019, Allure established a set of guidelines to clarify what “clean” actually means when applied to the serums, shampoos, and makeup we use every day. Working with dermatologists and chemists, the publication identified which ingredients warrant concern based on available research. The framework originally included 15 ingredient categories; seven years later, it has shrunk to 10. Formaldehyde, triclosan, microbeads, PEGs, and hydroquinone were removed because they are no longer used in over-the-counter cosmetics.

Google searches for clean beauty peaked in April 2026, more than double the volume from April 2022. Any product bearing the Allure Clean Best of Beauty seal has met these criteria and is free of the identified ingredients. Here’s what experts say about seven of them.

Chemical Sunscreen Filters: Safety Questions Remain

Chemical sunscreen agents work by absorbing ultraviolet rays to shield skin from damage. Unlike physical sunscreens, which reflect UV rays, these filters penetrate the skin to provide protection.

The FDA’s Ongoing Concerns

The FDA has questioned whether sufficient safety data exists for 12 permitted chemical sunscreen agents. A January 2020 FDA-conducted clinical study published in JAMA found that some chemical sunscreen filters—even after a single application—do not remain on the skin’s surface. Instead, they enter the bloodstream at concentrations that, in some cases, exceeded the FDA’s established safety threshold.

Bemotrizinol: A New Approval

In 2026, the FDA approved bemotrizinol, marking the first new sunscreen filter approval in over 20 years. The molecule was specifically designed as a larger structure to minimize skin penetration. According to cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos, “If people have concerns about some of the other sunscreens and skin penetration, this molecule is really an improvement on that.” It’s important to note that no proof exists showing other chemical filters are dangerous—only that sufficient safety evidence remains lacking. However, no one should avoid sunscreen, which is proven extremely effective at preventing cancer.

Environmental Impact in Water

In 2021, Hawaii banned the sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate due to concerns that these ingredients damage coral reefs and marine ecosystems. The labels “reef-safe” and “ocean-safe” remain unregulated, though a proposed bill (H.R. 4800) seeks to establish FDA standards. For those concerned about ocean impact, sunscreens containing titanium dioxide or non-nano zinc oxide (particles larger than 100 nanometers) are already recognized by the FDA as safe and effective.

Preservatives and Additives: Parabens and Phthalates

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Parabens: Weak Hormone-Mimicking Properties

Parabens—including butyl-, methyl-, ethyl-, and propylparaben—are preservatives that extend product shelf life by preventing bacterial and mold growth. A 2014 study suggested that some parabens, which are moderately absorbed through the skin, could have weak estrogen-mimicking properties. While estrogenicity has been linked to breast cancer proliferation, many substances possess estrogenic properties without being considered risky.

Scientists have detected parabens in noncancerous breast tissue, but it remains unclear whether they came from cosmetics or food sources, where parabens also naturally occur. “With any chemical in a product—makeup or juice or food—we have a very hard time measuring how much you’re actually exposed to,” Timothy Rebbeck, PhD, a cancer prevention professor at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute and Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health, told Allure in 2024. “Everybody uses these products a little differently, and they metabolize them differently.”

The FDA states there is no conclusive evidence that cosmetics containing parabens affect human health. California and Maryland have banned isopropylparaben and isobutylparaben from cosmetics. Many brands have voluntarily reformulated to exclude parabens; however, cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski noted to Allure in 2024 that “the industry removed them for marketing reasons, not safety reasons.” Replacement preservatives, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, and benzyl alcohol, have far less safety data supporting their use than parabens do.

Phthalates: Reproductive and Developmental Links

Phthalates are chemicals used to make plastics more flexible and durable in nail polish, hairspray, cleansers, and shampoos. They also stabilize fragrance in products and often appear under the label “Fragrance” or “Flavor.”

Research suggests phthalates are endocrine disruptors—substances that interfere with the body’s natural hormones—and may be linked to reproductive issues. A 2022 pooled study published in JAMA Pediatrics found that pregnant women with higher urinary concentrations of common phthalates showed greater odds of delivering preterm. A 2019 study observed an association between prenatal and early childhood phthalate exposure and decreased motor scores in preteens, though additional research is needed to confirm this connection.

Many companies have removed phthalates from cosmetics and other products due to these concerns. The EU has banned certain phthalates outright in cosmetics. Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos observes that phthalate exposure in the U.S. is likely low today because most have been removed intentionally. “I don’t think you’d see phthalates as an intentional ingredient, like added into a shampoo, but they could appear as a component in fragrance.”

Common Cleansers: Sulfates and Silicones

Sulfates and the Cancer Myth

Sulfates are cleansing agents that trap oil-based dirt so it can be rinsed away with water. They also create the lather found in shampoos, toothpastes, and soaps. In 1998, the American Cancer Society debunked the claim that sulfates cause cancer. Though the National Toxicology Program has identified some sulfate-containing compounds with carcinogenic hazards, these are not the sulfates found in beauty products. The primary concern is irritation and dryness, which can occasionally trigger canker sores or strip dye molecules from hair—issues that are rare with regular consumer use.

“A lot of this concern has come from exaggerated use conditions in studies,” Dobos said. “You’re putting it on, you’re lathering it up, and you’re rinsing it off. Your exposure to these materials is actually very transient.” For those with sensitive skin or who want to extend the time between hair coloring, sulfate-free alternatives are widely available, though they typically produce less lather than traditional formulas.

Silicones and Environmental Restrictions

Silicones are slippery, waterproof chemicals used in primers, foundations, and hair serums for smooth application. Beauty products contain two main types: linear silicones (like dimethicone) and cyclic silicones (like cyclomethicone and cyclosiloxanes). Cyclic silicones raise environmental concerns. Starting in 2020, the EU limited cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) in wash-off cosmetics to 0.1% due to concerns about water supply accumulation. In 2026, the EU applied further restrictions to dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) in leave-on cosmetics.

From a human safety perspective, cosmetic-grade silicones—whether linear or cyclic—are safe for skin and hair. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests that silicone-containing sunscreens may be beneficial for people with rosacea who experience irritation after sunscreen application.

Aluminum Compounds and Talc: Safety Questions

Aluminum in Antiperspirants

Aluminum compounds—including aluminum sulfate, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, and aluminum zirconium—temporarily block sweat glands. Concerns arose about a possible link between antiperspirant use and breast cancer, since many breast cancers develop near the armpit. The American Cancer Society states there is “very little scientific evidence” supporting this connection, and recent research continues to contradict the claim. Some studies found elevated aluminum levels in Alzheimer’s-affected brains, but no causal relationship has been established. Board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, notes that if any side effect occurs, it would likely be eczema-like skin irritation, though this cannot be definitively attributed to the salt.

Talc and Asbestos Contamination

Talc, a mineral found in eyeshadows and face powders, absorbs moisture to prevent caking. Research on talc’s cancer risk has been mixed, but the ingredient can be contaminated with asbestos, a known carcinogen. Several studies show a possible link between regular talc exposure and ovarian or endometrial cancers in certain populations. Thousands of lawsuits have been filed against Johnson & Johnson based on claims that its talc products caused cancer. In July 2026, the company proposed a $5.5 billion settlement for approximately 76,000 cases, though it has denied responsibility.

The FDA conducts voluntary spot testing of talc-based cosmetics for asbestos and investigates contamination reports. Standardized testing methods remain under assessment. Social media criticism erupted in 2025 when consumers believed the FDA had ended mandatory testing; however, the FDA never required such testing initially. “The proposed rule aimed to close this gap by making testing mandatory and uniform,” Dobos told Allure this year. Multiple brands have voluntarily recalled talc-based products or reformulated without the ingredient.

The Standard Continues to Evolve

The Allure Clean Standard reflects the current state of scientific evidence and expert consensus at the time of publication. As new research emerges and the beauty industry evolves, these guidelines are updated annually. The publication updates its standards along with scientific developments, ensuring that any product bearing the seal represents the most current understanding of ingredient safety and consumer concerns.

Source: Allure