Dakota Johnson’s Quarter-Up Hairdo Evolved Her Red-Carpet Signature

Dakota Johnson’s appearance at the Verity premiere on September 29 in New York marked a notable shift in her public-facing style approach. In recent months, her signature look has remained consistent across high-profile events including Milan Fashion Week, the MTV VMAs, and the Valentino Vendetta fragrance launch—long hair worn completely down, smooth texture, and those recognizable bangs. The quarter-up style at this premiere represented a deliberate evolution of that formula.

Why the Change

Hairstylist Mark Townsend wanted to create something that matched the brightness of Johnson’s outfit while offering a fresh take on her usual approach. He describes his thinking to Allure: “We used to do a lot of half-up hairstyles, and I felt half-up would be perfect for her Calvin Klein look.”

That’s where Johnson’s input became crucial. Rather than executing a traditional half-up, she proposed a modification. “It was Dakota’s idea to not do a full half-up by leaving quite a bit of hair down on the sides,” Townsend explains. This single suggestion transformed the concept into what he now calls a “quarter-up hairdo”—a style that borrows the polished formality of an updo while retaining the softness and movement of hair worn down.

The Calvin Klein Context

Read also: Lili Reinhart’s Wigs for The Love Hypothesis: Hair as Storytelling · Why Thousands of Women Are Traveling to Turkey for Hair Transplants · Get Salon-Quality Blowouts at Home with the Right Round Brush

Stylist Kate Young dressed Johnson in a Calvin Klein Collection two-piece that demanded careful hair consideration. The ensemble consisted of a shimmering bralette-style top paired with a high-slit column skirt, both covered in sparkling beads. Diamond jewelry—a necklace and matching earrings—added further luminosity without heaviness.

The outfit’s sparkle and shine meant the hairstyle needed to complement rather than compete. A heavy, entirely-down style would overwhelm the neckline and jewelry. A severe updo would contrast too sharply with the sensual slit and fitted silhouette. The quarter-up split the difference, creating what reads as an opulent, contemporary interpretation of Y2K aesthetics.

The Technical Build

Creating the quarter-up required precision and product knowledge.

Foundation and Smoothing

Townsend began by blow-drying Johnson’s hair with a medium round brush to establish volume and fullness. He then applied IGK Good Behavior Spirulina Protein Smoothing Spray—a product designed to fight frizz while maintaining shine. This step prevented flyaways and static that could undermine the polished finish, especially important under premiere lighting and photography.

Texture and Heat Styling

Once the hair had dried and been smoothed, Townsend used a curling iron to work through three-inch sections, adding wave and movement throughout. Following the curl work, he ran IGK Good Behavior Flexible Anti-Frizz Hairspray through the hair on a flat brush. This product locked in both the smoothness already established and the curl pattern just created, providing hold without stiffness—essential for a hairstyle designed to look lived-in rather than architectural.

The Gathering

The final step involved pulling the hair up at the crown while strategically leaving sections down. Face-framing layers remained loose on either side of the face, creating soft lines that would frame Johnson’s features and highlight her makeup. The gathered portion at the back needed enough volume and texture to read as intentional rather than accidental.

Collaboration as Creative Process

What distinguished this premiere look was how it came together. Rather than a stylist executing a pre-planned design on a passive subject, this was a genuine collaboration between Johnson and Townsend.

According to Allure, Townsend describes the dynamic: “I love doing hairstyles like this with Dakota. She will pull her hair on top of her head into a cool shape, and I will secure it with Day Rate Beauty Foundation Pins while she’s still holding it up. It’s a team collaboration.”

Johnson’s hands-on participation meant she could adjust the volume, placement, and overall silhouette in real time. Her familiarity with how her own hair moves and sits allowed for intuitive decisions about how much to gather versus how much to leave down. Meanwhile, Townsend’s technical expertise ensured the gathered sections held their shape and the pins remained completely hidden.

Townsend documented the process, sharing behind-the-scenes footage from his point of view while styling. These clips captured the back-and-forth of the styling session—Johnson pulling her hair into shapes while Townsend secured them with Day Rate Beauty Foundation Pins. The final result reflected both participants’ input, creating a look that neither would have achieved alone.

The Result

The quarter-up served multiple functions simultaneously. By keeping hair off the forehead and temples while leaving the sides soft, it drew the eye directly to Johnson’s red lip—a bold choice in makeup that benefited from the framing effect. The style also ensured that the diamond jewelry remained fully visible, and the bralette neckline received proper visual emphasis without competing details.

From a pure styling perspective, the quarter-up created the luminosity Townsend intended. The gathered sections catch light differently than completely down hair, adding dimension and catching photographic flash. The face-framing layers prevent the hairstyle from appearing severe, maintaining the approachability that characterizes Johnson’s usual aesthetic even as the quarter-up signals occasion and formality.

This premiere look proved that Johnson’s signature style—while effective—is not the only approach that works for her. The willingness to evolve, paired with a stylist who listens and the technical products needed to execute a new idea, created something that felt both fresh and unmistakably hers.

Source: Allure